Patek Philippe Aquanaut Watches

Patek Philippe Aquanaut: Overview & Key Specifications

Patek Philippe Aquanaut is famous for its rounded octagonal shape and the use of high-tech materials. When you look at an Aquanaut, the first thing you will notice is the dial structure, which resembles a checkerboard or grenade pattern.

The company has made this design very smart because it adds depth to the face of the watch. Patek Philippe pairs this model with a composite rubber strap, which was a very bold move for a high-end brand back in the day. Likewise, this watch model uses the best in-house movements in the world.

Model Description and Naming

The story of Patek Philippe Aquanaut starts in 1997. The company wanted to reach a new audience as they saw that younger buyers during the “Dot Com” boom wanted something sporty but not as cold as steel link bracelets. So, it launched the reference 5060A.

The name Aquanaut mixes two words. The first one is Aqua, which means water, and the second one is Naut, which means sailor. So, these words tell you exactly what this watch is for. The company has manufactured this model for life near water.

In addition, the design came from the Nautilus, but Patek Philippe simplified the case construction. It uses a three-part case instead of the complex hinged design of the Nautilus. The signature pattern on the dial accompanies the pattern on the strap and creates a beautiful look from the case to the wrist.

Technical Specifications

Although there are many different reference numbers, most Aquanaut watches share the following fundamental features:

• Bezel Shape: It is a rounded octagon with a satin-brushed top and polished edges, which makes it look very expensive. 
• Dial Pattern: The embossed geosphere pattern, also called the grenade dial, is standard, and it usually has Arabic numerals made of white gold or rose gold filled with Super-LumiNova for night visibility. 
• The Tropical Strap: The strap is not normal rubber. In fact, it is a composite material that resists sweat, salt water, and UV rays from the sun. Likewise, it does not get sticky or brittle over time. 
• Crystal: There is a sapphire crystal on the front and a sapphire crystal case back on almost all modern mechanical models, so you can see the movement. 
• Water Resistance: Patek Philippe Aquanaut is water-resistant up to 120 meters. However, the company has unified its ratings recently. Now, the official rating is 30 meters, which is still safe for swimming and showering. However, this is not suitable for deep diving. 
• Movement Certification: All mechanical Aquanaut watches carry the Patek Philippe Seal, which is a stricter standard than the Geneva Seal and promises extreme accuracy (-3/+2 seconds per day). 

Main Variants

The Aquanaut family has grown a lot, and here is how you can categorize it without getting lost in too many numbers:

• Standard Time & Date: The reference 5167A (40.8mm) is the classic steel model, and there is also the Jumbo version, such as the reference 5168G, which is 42.2mm and comes in white gold. 
• Complications: The company added useful functions over time. The Aquanaut Travel Time, such as the reference 5164, is very popular for travelers because it shows two time zones. The Aquanaut Chronograph, such as the reference 5968, adds a stopwatch function and usually comes with colorful straps like orange or khaki green. 
• Ladies’ Collection: These are smaller 38.8mm or 35.6mm watches and are called the Aquanaut Luce. These usually have diamonds on the bezel. Remember, Luce means light in Italian. 
• Movement Evolution: Older models used the Calibre 324 S C. Newer models launched between 2024 and 2025 use the updated Calibre 26-330 SC. So, the big difference is that the new movement has hacking seconds, which means the second hand stops when you pull the crown. Thus, this allows for precise time setting. 

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Prices: Retail vs Secondary Market

If you want to buy an Aquanaut watch today, you have two choices. The first one is waiting years for an authorized dealer or paying a premium on the secondary market. The gap between these two prices is massive. For example, the demand is much higher for Aquanaut models in the UAE and other countries. But the supply is low, which makes this model a “hype watch,” similar to a Rolex Daytona or Patek Nautilus.

Secondary Market Price Overview

You pay for the speed of transaction and the condition of the watch in the open market. A full set, which includes the box and papers, is important here. A watch without papers is worth much less. The market is strong as of late 2025. For example, a standard steel Aquanaut 5167A costs around AED 275,000 if you buy it from a luxury dealer, even though the retail price is much lower.

Special colors like the Khaki Green (reference 5168G) or the Orange accents on the Chronograph (reference 5968A) increase prices because they look very unique on the wrist. Here is what you can expect to pay in the secondary market for watches in “Very Good” to “Unworn” condition:

• The price of Steel Time-Only 5167A is between AED 263,000 and AED 330,000. 
• White Gold Jumbo 5168G has an approximate price between AED 310,000 and AED 440,000. 
• Steel Chronograph 5968A has a price between AED 480,000 and AED 623,000. 
• Rose Gold Travel Time reference 5164R is approximately AED 385,000. 

Official Retail Price List

Patek Philippe Aquanaut as an Investment

Patek Philippe Aquanaut is a good investment because its value retention is excellent. First, production is low, and the company roughly makes 70,000 watches a year in total. Only a small number of those are the Aquanaut watches. Second, the “Nautilus Effect” helps because it is almost impossible to get, which forces collectors to buy the Aquanaut instead.

Thus, this pushes the price up. Even if the market is not good, the Aquanaut watch usually stays well above its retail price. For instance, steel models, such as the reference 5167A, have the highest percentage of profit compared to precious metals. However, watches are not stocks, and prices can go down, but blue-chip brands like Patek are safer investments.

Authenticity, Certification & Warranty

You must be very careful when buying a Patek Philippe Aquanaut because it is an expensive watch. Likewise, staying careful is important because fake Aquanauts are getting very good. Therefore, checking the authenticity is essential.

You need to look at the movement finish. A real Patek has perfectly polished edges or anglage on the bridges. You must also check the serial numbers, as the company engraves the movement number and case number inside the case back. Remember, these much match the Certificate of Origin. Patek stopped using the Geneva Seal in 2009.

The company created its own PP seal, which is a mark on the movement that guarantees the watch was made to the highest standard and will be serviceable forever. If you have bought a new Aquanaut after May 1, 2024, you would have a 5-year international warranty. The standard warranty was only two years before this date. Keep in mind that this warranty follows the watch, not the owner, which is good for resale.