Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Watches

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak: Overview & Key Specifications

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is an expensive watch model. It is not a standard round watch but a complex machine with state-of-the-art features.

Model Description and Naming

The story starts in 1971 when the Swiss watch industry was in a bad place due to the “Quartz Crisis.” Audemars Piguet was in a financial crisis, and the managing director, Georges Golay, needed a miracle. So, he called the famous designer Gerald Genta on the eve of the Basel Fair and told him to design an “unprecedented steel watch” for the Italian market. He needed it by the next morning. 

Genta drew the design in one night. He got the idea from a vintage deep-sea diving helmet, which was attached to the suit with screws. Genta decided to keep the screws visible on the front of the watch. Georges Golay found this a little strange and shocking because Haute Horlogerie usually hides the screws. Anyways, the name “Royal Oak” came from Carlo de Marchi, an Italian agent. It refers to the Royal Oak tree where King Charles II hid in 1651. Later, the British Royal Navy named eight ships HMS Royal Oak. That’s why the watch bezel has eight hexagonal screws. 

Most people got confused when the company launched this model in 1972 as reference 5402. Audemars Piguet made this model of stainless steel. However, it costs more than a gold dress watch (3,300 Swiss Francs). The company and watch experts called it the “Jumbo” because it was 39mm wide, which was very big for that time. Today, the Royal Oak is the flagship of the brand. 

Technical Specifications

Although you can find numerous Audemars Piguet Royal Oak models, almost all of them share some core features:

• The Case & Bezel: The bezel is always octagonal (8 sides). So, it is held by eight hexagonal screws made of white gold. Remember, the screws are gold even if the watch is steel. Audemars Piguet has arranged these screws in a circle, and there is perfect alignment of slots on the screws. You can’t do this by screwing them in from the top because they are actually bolts secured by nuts from the case back. 
• Finishing: The finishing is what makes it a “Holy Trinity” quality. The top of the bezel has a vertical satin-brushed finish. Likewise, the edges of the bezel are polished to a mirror finish, which is called “chamfering or beveling.” The light hits the brushed part and the polished part differently. 
• The Dial: Most models use the Tapisserie dial, which is a grid pattern of raised squares. It is cut using an old machine called a pantograph. Keep in mind that it is not stamped but a cut, which gives the dial a sharp and crisp texture that catches light. 
• Integrated Bracelet: The bracelet does not use spring bars like Rolex watches. Audemars Piguet has integrated it directly into the case, so it tapers or gets smaller as it goes to the clasp. Two smaller studs connect the links, making the bracelet very flexible and stronger.

Main Variants

• Jumbo Extra-Thin: Examples include reference 15202 and 16202. It looks like the original 1972 model. It is 39mm and very thin and has no “seconds” hand (just hour and minute). The reference 16202ST is the current version launched for the 50th anniversary. 
• Self-winding: The most common example is the reference 15400 / 15500 / 15510. These references are the main commercial models and come in 41mm and 37mm sizes. Besides, these watches have a “seconds” hand and a date window. These are thicker than the Jumbo because they use more robust movements. 
• Chronograph: Reference 26331 / 26240 are sporty models with stopwatch functions. The newer reference 26240 uses the in-house Calibre 4401, which is a flyback chronograph. 
• Offshore: Audemars Piguet launched this model in 1993. Many people call it the “big brother” because it is either 42mm or 44mm. It has rubber pushers and crown guards. Some even call it “the Beast.” 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watches have different movements. For example, the Calibre 2121 is the vintage ultra-thin movement used in the Jumbo for 50 years. The Calibre 3120 is the workhorse movement used in the older 15400. But this is very reliable. Moreover, the Calibre 4302 is the modern movement in the 15500ST and 15510ST. It beats at 4Hz (28,800 vph) and has a 70-hour power reserve. The Calibre 7121 features the new ultra-thin engine for the 16202 Jumbo. 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Prices: Retail vs Secondary Market

There are two kinds of prices to keep in mind when buying an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch. These include the retail and the secondary market price. 

Secondary Market Price Overview

The market has settled in 2026. We experienced an unprecedented increase in 2022, where prices were triple the retail price. Now, prices are stable but still high. You still pay a premium over retail for steel models. Several factors change the price:

• Dial Color: Blue and Green dials cost more than Black, Silver, or Grey. 
• Condition: An unworn watch with stickers will have a higher price than one in “Very Good” condition. 
• Full Set: You must have the “Archive Papers” or the new warranty card because a Royal Oak watch without a card is hard to sell. 
• Material: Steel is the most liquid. Rose Gold is very popular in the UAE market. 

High-End Royal Oak Watches

High-end watches like a Royal Oak 39mm Openworked (Skeleton) in Yellow Gold (2025 model) in unworn condition are AED 699,900, which shows that collectors pay huge money for open dials. The 2021 skeleton model, which is 41mm and a reference of steel in very good condition, has a price of 569,900. In addition, the 2025 Royal Oak 37mm with the purple dial, usually called the “Amethyst,” is trading at AED 749,900. Remember, this is very high for a smaller size, but it shows that rare colors can increase value.

Core Steel Models

The Standard Royal Oak 41mm (reference 15510ST) Black dial (2025, Unworn) is AED 444,900, which is a massive premium over the retail price. However, if you look at the 2023 model, which is 41mm in “Very Good” condition, it drops to AED 204,900. So, this is a big difference, which means “Unworn” status has a huge premium. Similarly, a 2017 Chronograph 41mm in steel is around AED 169,900, which is relatively affordable for an AP Chrono, and this also shows that older references are good entry points.

Chronographs

The new Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm, such as the 2024 model with a blue dial, is for AED 244,900. Blue dials have the highest demand in the UAE. The secondary market price for a rose gold Chronograph 41mm (2023) is AED 374,900.

Official Retail Price List

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak as an Investment

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is a good investment. These watches have a blue-chip status like the Patek Philippe Nautilus. It is safe compared to trendy brands, and the demand is always there because the supply is low (The company only makes about 50,000 watches a year). Stainless steel watches increase the most in percentage.

A steel Jumbo bought at retail doubles in value instantly. Gold watches lose some value initially unless they are openworked or have special dials. The reference 16202 and the older 15202 are the safest bet. It is the purest design and is immune to market crashes. Prices dropped about 18% in 2023, which was healthy, and the market is now real collectors, not just flippers. Buying now is safer than buying in the 2022 bubble.

Authenticity, Certification & Warranty

There are numerous fake Royal Oak watches. Some are Super Clones that are very scary because they look 99% real. You must know how to verify them: 

1. The Tapisserie: The squares on the dial look flat or shiny on a fake. On a real AP, the squares have a specific matte texture with a spiral pattern inside the square. This is from the Pantograph machine. 
2. The Screws: The bezel screw slots must be perfectly recessed. If they stick out or sink too deep, it is fake. 
3. Serial Numbers: Every watch has a case number (letter + numbers) on the back. You can check this against the Extract from the Archives. 
4. Movement Finish: Look at the gold rotor and check whether the engraving is sharp. The “Cotes de Geneve” strips on the bridges must align perfectly. 

Audemars Piguet does not use COSC because the company has its own internal tests, which are stricter. It tests the watch “cased-up,” not just the movement. New watches come with a 2-year warranty. If you register the watch online on the AP website, you get extended warranty coverage up to 5 years. And this is called the “AP Coverage Service.” It covers theft in some cases for the first few years, which is unique to AP. If you buy from Watch Maestro, we will give you a limited one-year warranty.